RestaurangUSThe Zone

Rated 4.5 av 5

Despite the luxe reworking- matched with a pleasant though militantly stiff waitstaff and those fussy trappings left over from the space’s days as the oligarchic Brasserie Pushkin – chef Bryce Shuman thankfully hasn’t lost his sense of fun.

Location

If the prix fixe is a chef’s CliffsNotes, the tasting menu is their magnum opus—lengthier and denser, painstakingly edited, with many an all-nighter spent carving out both structure and statement. Sure, they can be self-indulgent, glacially slow, sometimes damn-near masochistic in their nonstop cortege of plates. But boy, what a way to eat when the chef’s got something to say—and Bryce Shuman has plenty.

In March, the Eleven Madison Park vet discarded the à la carte offerings at Betony, the ambitious two-year-old midtowner that garnered him a Michelin star, and recharged the fine-dining room with a four-course prix fixe ($95) and a 10-course chef’s tasting menu ($195; optional wine pairing $95). But despite the luxe reworking—matched with a pleasant though militantly stiff waitstaff and those fussy trappings left over from the space’s days as the oligarchic Brasserie Pushkin—Shuman thankfully hasn’t lost his sense of fun.

Dining

That mirth is felt from the get-go, kicking off with a play-with-your-food plate of English-pea puree spackled with sesame and olive oil and served with a single rainbow kale leaf that the waistcoated server instructs to use as a utensil. Later, it’s palpable in a crispy carrot roll—twee enough for a hamster—snowed with crumbles of the fermented root veg, and a nest of julienned kohlrabi, broccoli stem and watermelon radish strips, sauced with honey-mustard dressing and scattered with chive tips. Altogether, you’ve got the world’s most elegant coleslaw.

Comments

Shuman isn’t immune to redundancy, however. Rice crackers pop up a touch too often, a carbonized crisp hooding a briny pat of caviar, caramelized onions and a crème fraîche dollop in one course and a tapioca wafer acting as a crunchy counterpoint to sweet hamachi and virile green-onion pesto in another.

And there are instances when the pomp and circumstance get in the way of the chef’s good nature: The flamboyant pageantry of the cheese course is enough to give you a case of the church giggles—a waiter earnestly slices open a bread roll nestled in a wreath of hay to reveal a molten core of velvety Wisconsin cow’s-milk cheese. It would be more entertaining to let diners gamely crack it open themselves rather than keep all the fun sequestered on a tray. Luckily, Shuman’s clear glee is almost enough to make up for it.

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Bekvämligheter
  • Gratis Wi-Fi
  • Parkering
  • Cykel Parkering
  • Accepterar Kredit Kort
  • Rullstol Tillgängligt
  • Luftkonditionering
  • Bar service
  • Familje vänligt
  • Sällskapsdjurs vänligt
  • Catering
  • Privat Evenemang
  • Privat Matsal
  • Bokning krävs

4 recensioner

  • A big WOW dinner

    Food was extraordinary. We tried many different dishes Encourage you to experiment. The composition of all surprises you even if you are expecting new. The breads are ridiculous; beware of over stuffing. Service was superlative. Expensive. Worth it for a special event. And save room for sweets

    27 oktober, 2017

    Svar

  • Joanna Wilson
    4 av 5

    Best nyc restaurant in midtown

    Elegant restaurant with flawless, attentive service . Four course menu with small, creative, taste bursting plates. Small torchon of foie gras covered in diced pistachios ( very Sicilian) followed by ink based gnoccheti with eel carbonara then a fish course and dessert. Wine list amazing but also good value at cheaper end, and excellent sommelier. Not certain if one or two Michelin stars but well deserved.

    Fortsätt läsa

    27 oktober, 2017

    Svar

  • Jason Lee
    5 av 5

    Fabulous find

    I came here to eat carbonara! It was so good! The taste is really really rich. The service is excellent! Especially my server Andrea was nice to me! I like this atmosphere too! You should visit here when you come to New York!

    27 oktober, 2017

    Svar

  • Eddie Andrew
    5 av 5

    Great place to eat

    We were brought here by locals and we weren\'t disappointed. Located in the Brooklyn, but away from the craziness, the food was delicious! They were also very helpful helping me pick out food that my daughter (food allergies) could eat. We had a variety of tacos and sides, and one was better than the next. We especially loved the corn. Also loved the plantains with the guac! Easy, casual dining. Highly recommend.

    Fortsätt läsa

    27 oktober, 2017

    Svar

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